Nice & Curious Questions

Edwin S. Clay III and Patricia Bangs


 

Oh, Say Can You See?

Lighthouses and Lookouts in VA

 

Lighthouses and lookouts may serve different purposes in the commonwealth, but they have one thing in common: their numbers are shrinking. In the case of lighthouses, several Virginia beacons have been auctioned to private bidders on eBay when nonprofit groups couldn’t come up with enough funds to restore them.

 

Of the 1,500 lighthouses left in the world, Virginia claims 11 historic structures, nine of which still operate. They include lighthouses on the Atlantic coast, along the Chesapeake Bay and at the mouth of the Potomac River.

 

One of the oldest lighthouses in the country is the Old Cape Henry Lighthouse, built in 1792. Its 90-foot-tall sandstone tower stands on the grounds of Fort Story on Atlantic Avenue in Virginia Beach. Its first keeper, Laban Goffigan, was appointed by George Washington. He lit fish-oil burning lamps to keep the Chesapeake Bay safe for seafarers. During the Civil War, Confederate troops purposely damaged the light to make navigation harder for Union troops. By 1870 large cracks had appeared and a new structure was deemed necessary. Today, the original structure is maintained by the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities. It’s open to the public and every December the U.S. Army decorates it like a large Christmas tree.

 

The “new” Cape Henry Lighthouse, built in 1881, stands 357 feet away from its predecessor. At 164 feet, it is the tallest cast-iron lighthouse in the United States. During World War II, the top was used as a battery commander station and contained two 16-inch howitzers to ward off German attacks. It remains active and is operated by the U.S. Coast Guard. (Lighthouses in Virginia.)

 

The Assateague Lighthouse, first built in 1833 and rebuilt in 1867, is also an active lighthouse. Since 2004, it has been owned by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and wildlife refuge staff live in the original two-story lighthouse keeper’s house.

 

Lighthouse keepers have been essentially obsolete since the beginning of the 20th century when a Swedish inventor, Gustav Dahlén, invented automated lighthouses. However, some keepers remain to serve as rescue services.

 

The Old Point Comfort Lighthouse, located at Fort Monroe in Hampton, still houses a keeper. The 54-foot structure, commissioned by Thomas Jefferson, was built in 1802 and is the second oldest on the Chesapeake Bay. As with other lighthouses, it became important during America’s various wars. It was used as a watch tower in the War of 1812, and naval guns riddled it with bullets during the Civil War.

 

The New Point Comfort Lighthouse, built two years later, is 63 feet tall. It also was disabled during the Civil War by Confederate troops. It was then repaired, but by 1919 had been partially automated and there was no longer a need for a keeper. The island on which it stands has been owned by the Nature Conservancy since 1979.

 

Perhaps the lighthouses with the most interesting fates are those that were recently bought at auction. The Smith Point Lighthouse, located in the Chesapeake off the mouth of the Potomac, went for $170,000 on eBay to Dave and Teri McNally of Winona, Minn. McNally, who owns a construction business, plans to remodel the lighthouse into a vacation home. (“The Lure of a Lighthouse: Minnesota Couple Buy Chesapeake Bay Landmark Tower in an Online Auction,” The Washington Post, January 8, 2006.)

 

Robert Gonsoulin bought the Newport News Middle Ground Lighthouse at auction in October 2005 after two nonprofit groups submitted applications to buy it under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act but were turned down. Gonsoulin, who plans to make the lighthouse a retreat for his family, had spent $30,000 to restore the structure by mid-2006. (Virginia Lighthouses.)

 

Both the Smith Point and New News Middle Ground lights are still active and operated by the U.S. Coast Guard. Only the houses are in private hands.

 

Lookouts, fire towers, watch towers – whatever you might call them – are also a dying breed. According to the Forest Fire Lookout Association, there are only 50 remaining fire towers in Virginia out of 115 that existed at one time. For example, only three of 24 fire towers remain in the George Washington National Forest about 150 miles west of Washington, D.C.

 

One of them is Elliott Knob Lookout, located on one of the highest points in northern Virginia. The 30-foot tower sits at an elevation of 4,421 feet. It’s a 14-foot by 14-foot live-in metal cab, built in 1948 to replace one built in the 1920s. Another is High Knob Lookout, which sits at 4,050 feet. It’s a 20-foot stone tower with a wooden catwalk and cab. It was built in 1939-1940 by World War I veterans and the Civilian Conservation Corps.

 

Other towers are operated by the Virginia Department of Forestry, which oversees Virginia’s 17 state forests. The Bull Mountain Lookout may be one of the only fire towers in the country that honors a governor. Located in Patrick County, it is dedicated to Governor Gerald L. Baliles, who grew up near it and is said to have “visited it often.”

 

While fire towers may not have the same allure as their lighthouse brethren and don’t show up at auction, both are symbols of simpler times in the Old Dominion.   

 

NEXT: Mail Box Ballots: Absentee Voting in Virginia.

 

-- November 20, 2006

 

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About "Nice & Curious"

 

In 1691, a group of English wits, calling themselves the Athenian Society, founded a publication entitled, "The Athenian Gazette or Causical Mercury, Resolving All the Most Nice and Curious Questions proposed by the Ingenious." The editors accepted questions posed by readers on any and all topics, and sought the most ingenious answers.

 

Inspired by their example, Edwin S. Clay III, president of the Virginia Library Association and Director of the Fairfax County Public Library, created an occasional column on Virginia facts that may require "ingenious answers" of the type favored by those 17th-century wags.

 

If you have a query, e-mail him at eclay0@fairfaxcounty.gov.

 

Fairfax County Public Library staff Patricia Bangs, Lois Kirkpatrick and MaryAnn Sheehan assist in the writing, editing and research of the column.